The Easter festival has begun

by mygrations | Apr 20, 2019

We have been in Kautokeino for several days and it is only getting better. The Easter celebrations have now started.This does not mean that there are unwise activities all day long. In fact, the opposite. During the day there is very little to do in Kautokeino. People sleep late. The Easter parties are actually mainly nightly activities. The young and old go on until the very early hours. For example, just at half past 11 in the morning, we received an app from our host Jonny that he was now going to bed. And that while we already came home at 3:30 in the morning from a nice night in Alfreds Kro.

We are not those night people. We enjoy a beer in the pub, some live music and in the evening relax on the couch. Preferably with a bowl of chips and a cup of tea. Quite civil yes. That bourgeois here means good food together, a pre-drink and then to the pub at noon to drink it all down and get out of bed at 2 pm the next day. We, on the other hand, are often awake at 8 am.

So this morning I was awake again at 7 o’clock. And that’s pretty tough after a night out with the Sami. Back to those Easter parties because it is not that it is only at night. There are a number of activities during the day. There are exhibitions that you can admire. Of these, we have seen one that did not exceed our expectations. There is a photo exhibition of a Japanese who lived here for 8 years. Beautiful pictures of a time when the Sami migrated really traditionally. Now some put their reindeer in a truck, drive them to the coast and let the reindeer graze there again. That is the really luxurious version that I have only heard once. There was also an ‘ice fishing competition’ where families took to the ice to catch the largest fish. The person with the largest fish wins 30,000kr, which is about 300 Euro. Quite a good price for a fish. What you can also win with a 50 euro ticket is a hybrid car, a snowmobile or money. Many people who participate mainly go for those prizes and just sit in the sun and have a BBQ on the ice.

Then there was the snowmobile cross, which was perhaps the biggest event. A lot of people were out and there were leagues from the age of 4. Unfortunately, as often with crosses, there were some crashes here too. Including one where an ambulance helicopter had to come. In itself, this is somewhat more normal here than in the Netherlands, given the distance from a good hospital. This time he was taken to Tromsø. So that was the end of the snowmobile cross, which was eventually won by the Flying Fin.

The reindeer races have unfortunately been canceled. The reason for this depends on the person you are speaking to. According to one, it is because it is warm early and reindeer grow new antlers. The first moments the antlers are only made of blood and skin. The reindeer are a bit shy and that doesn’t work for racing. Another reason is that there is not enough snow. And yet another reason is that the reindeer are already migrating to the coast. Enough reasons not to let it go ahead. A disappointment to us. And instead of reindeer racing is… nothing. Time to immerse ourselves in the nightlife of Kautokeino.

So we went to a number of concerts such as the traditional Yoik concert and the opening concert which was also Yoik. We’ve even heard Rock & Yoik and Reggae Yoik. Fantastic, I am a fan. Yoik is often without words and therefore easy to sing along. Tonight, Saturday, is the Grand Prix (the song contest of the Sami) followed by some concerts. That nightlife here is really fantastic. At least, during the Easter celebrations. The sports hall has been transformed into a concert hall and the DJ comes after the concerts. Sometimes this starts with two girls in traditional clothes (Kakte). And everyone is dressed in traditional clothing. From young to old, it doesn’t matter. They all wear it with pride. You can see where someone comes from by the ponpon on the shoes, You can see if someone is married or single on the belt (square buttons = married, round = single) and the stripes on the sleeves tell you which family someone belongs to. The parties end around 3am, after which everyone goes home to drink more.

Visiting the Sami during Easter

by mygrations | Apr 16, 2019

To get to our final destination, we have to change trains once at Oslo airport and then drive for 7 hours from Tromsø via Finland. But, we are used to something. We also took this route two years ago.Then we braved snow storms and ice slippery roads. Not a snowflake in the sky today. Instead we drive under a beautiful clear blue sky with a lovely sun.

On the way through Norway and Finland

In Tromsø we picked up our white Ford Fiesta this morning. A nice little car that we as oldtimer enthusiasts and owners really enjoy. The car starts when necessary, warms us when we want it and even the music can be played via our own mobile. Of course we enjoy it to the full, although we never trade in our old Beetle and T2 van.

Well, once across the border in Finland we decide to have another meal in an old road cafe. Last time we were the only guests, not so bad with the weather at the time. This time it is busy, many customers enjoying a round of cross country skiing or snowmobiling in the area. On such a beautiful day, the frozen lake is an excellent opportunity for Finns and Norwegians to enjoy a day of sport on the ice. By the way, they simply call cross-country skiing here, which caused us some confusion. No high mountains to ski from, but nice hills to cross-country ski up and down again.

Karesuando, the northernmost town in Sweden

After a pizza with reindeer meat we are on our way again. We still have a long way to go and although it doesn’t get dark until late (around 9.30) we still want to arrive a little on time. But, don’t be in a rush. So we certainly still have time for a short trip to the Swedish Karesuando. It is the most northerly settlement in Sweden and has a beautiful church. It is really all that. The village is split in two. One half is on the Finnish side of the river and the other on the Swedish side. Yet for the people who live there it is one village. They speak Swedish, Finnish and Norwegian.

Kautokeino, the final destination

Time to drive on to Kautokeino where we arrive at 5:30 PM. Before we go to Jonny and Kirsten, our friends we stayed with last time, we decide to do some shopping. Kautokeino is not a very large village and yet it is of immense value to the Sami. It has, next to Karasjok, the greatest Sami density and reindeer and of course the largest Sami Easter celebration in the country are still held here. We traveled here for the latter. Although we soon hear from locals that Karasjok is trying to steal their festival a bit and attract the big Sami names.

The largest Easter festival in the Sami

Such an Easter party lasts all week and mainly means that there is a lot of partying, from the age of 18. If you are younger than 18, you are not welcome at the parties. Competitions are held for ice fishing, reindeer racing, snowmobile racing and joik singing. They also have a competition that is very similar to the Eurovision Song Contest, only they call it the Grand Prix here and only Sami’s are invited. We are all going to experience it.

At this time we are looking out over the valley and a beautiful purple sunset. The sky is still very clear and there is not a cloud to be seen. This could mean that we might be able to see the Northern Lights tonight. Although the chance is small because it is only dark for about 5 hours, and not pitch dark. But who knows … we are not giving up yet.

And yes, between 11 and 12 the Northern Lights were clearly visible. Not as we have seen before, but it certainly did not spoil the fun.