Rightly so! It’s a dangerous country. If I have to believe the locals, thieves are everywhere. Especially in Port Moresby, Mount Hagen and the other major cities. Shutting windows and doors does not apply here in the event of a fire or flood, but in the case of a car stop. Especially in Mount Hagen, because the pickpockets will come to sniff in. 

Police escort 

But no, MinBuZa is of course somewhat right to issue negative travel advice. For example, we have already had a police escort twice. Once at Tari because two families fight to the death over a piece of land and there are people who take advantage of it by raiding poor citizens and tourists. The other time on the way to Pagwi (Sepik). This was because the driver of our van had a disagreement with a few people who had pelted him with stones the day before. 

We also see everyone, really everyone (children, mothers, grandmothers) walking with a machete and we also regularly meet young men with a homemade three-barreled rifle. 

Children with a machete 

No thresholds but potholes

We have not yet seen any real danger. Yes except for the roads. They are awful. The pits are sometimes so big that the whole car can fit in them. Pieces have been removed and many bridges are no longer allowed to bear the name. Only the skeleton with a few sticks is often left. And make something? Ho but. Not that they have much to do. The men then, because the women are very busy. Busy with cultivating the land, raising children, running the household, selling products on the market, etc. And when they make a piece of the road, it is with big stones and they ask every passer-by for money. 

The road in Papua New Guinea is so full of potholes and holes that you cannot go fast, fortunately falling out of the trunk of a car does not happen often.

A salt shaker per day, please!

The amount of salt they throw over the food here is also very dangerous. Our guide Jack at Mount Wilhelm managed to empty a whole salt shaker on his plate in two days. They say that the Dutch introduced salt here and that is why they were not eaten by the cannibals. I have my doubts about this story, but I have not checked the facts yet. Our skipper Pieter eats a whole block of maggi stock with his sago and fish. For the taste. 

Choking on a beetle

And I haven’t even mentioned the exhaust fumes. Because letting your car idle for an hour because someone might arrive who might need a lift is quite normal here. 

In the Netherlands, children sometimes choke on Duplo. That does not happen here, but it is not surprising that all children have big bloated bellies. It is full of worms. And no, they do not swallow it, but it is not very healthy to drink water from the Sepik. Or put all those insects in your mouth as a joke and then choke on a beetle that is too big. It happens! 

Knocked out of the boat

Drinking from the Sepik is not only a danger. The fish trying to knock you out of the canoe too. I got three of them against my head and that’s not very nice. Fortunately, I think crocodiles are scarier than fish and I held on tight because falling into the water is certainly not an option here. And that while most people who live here wash themselves in the river. You sometimes come across people who are missing a hand or leg. But according to the crocodile hunter we met , crocodiles are very stupid animals and you can catch them by hand. I’ll leave that to him. 

Fighting with spears, it doesn’t happen much now. Eating betel nut that makes your tongue red and makes your head dizzy.

Betelnut

Besides all that, you also have the national product Betelnut, which not only causes your tongue to turn red, it also makes you stoned. So it’s great that our driver ‘Crazy Steve’ stopped five times the entire ride to Mount Wilhelm to enjoy different Betelnuts. In the plane you are not only asked not to smoke, you are also informed that chewing Betelnut is prohibited.

Die out!

And if all that is not dangerous enough, it is the mosquitoes. Because what a lot there are. I have seen very thick dirty black ones that only take 1 second to suck you empty. Giant with a thin long black and white body. They are a bit slower and can kill you before they even penetrate your skin (yes, in the case of mosquitoes, violence is allowed). Then there are the small midges-like mosquitoes that attack by the hundreds at a time. These do not like deet very much, but once they have gotten used to the smell, they attack again in hordes.

You also have the ‘normal’ mosquito here. One that keeps flying around your head and keeps you from falling asleep and makes you doubt whether you should turn on the light to slap it to death. If you turn on the light (main light), this mosquito is nowhere to be seen. Lights out and tadaaa there he is again.

Malaria is a problem. But not for the locals, they say. Because hey, once you live here, your body gets used to it. I might get used to malaria, but that itch! I can’t get used to that. And that’s exactly what makes it dangerous. You prefer to scratch your entire skin off.

I will leave earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, floods and other natural phenomena out of consideration. Fortunately, we did not experience them here, although earthquakes were felt in Papua New Guinea during our trip and a volcano erupted. Both times we were in an area that was not affected.

So yes, negative travel advice to this country is very justified. 

Ps. Danger is in a small corner, wherever you go you must of course always be careful. But don’t let it put you off because PNG is a fantastic country!